Broad screening of illicit ingredients in cosmetics using ultra-high-performance liquid chromatography-hybrid quadrupole-Orbitrap mass spectrometry with customized accurate-mass database and mass spectral library

Comprehensive identification and quantitation of 100 multi-class regulated ingredients in cosmetics was achieved using ultra-high-performance liquid chromatography (UHPLC) coupled with hybrid quadrupole-Orbitrap high-resolution mass spectrometry (Q-Orbitrap HRMS). A simple, efficient, and inexpensive sample pretreatment protocol was developed using ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE), followed by dispersive solid-phase extraction (dSPE). The cosmetic samples were analyzed by UHPLC-Q-Orbitrap HRMS under synchronous full-scan MS and data-dependent MS/MS (full-scan MS¹/dd-MS²) acquisition mode. The mass resolution was set to 70,000 FWHM (full width at half maximum) for full-scan MS¹ and 17,500 FWHM for dd-MS² stage with the experimentally measured mass deviations of less than 2ppm (parts per million) for quasi-molecular ions and 5ppm for characteristic fragment ions for each individual analyte. An accurate-mass database and a mass spectral library were built in house for searching the 100 target compounds. Broad screening was conducted by comparing the experimentally measured exact mass of precursor and fragment ions, retention time, isotopic pattern, and ionic ratio with the accurate-mass database and by matching the acquired MS/MS spectra against the mass spectral library. The developed methodology was evaluated and validated in terms of limits of detection (LODs), limits of quantitation (LOQs), linearity, stability, accuracy, and matrix effect. The UHPLC-Q-Orbitrap HRMS approach was applied for the analysis of 100 target illicit ingredients in 123 genuine cosmetic samples, and exhibited great potential for high-throughput, sensitive, and reliable screening of multi-class illicit compounds in cosmetics.