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Clujul Med. 2017;90(2):212-219. doi: 10.15386/cjmed-668. Epub 2017 Apr 25.

Formulation and evaluation of a water-in-oil cream containing herbal active ingredients and ferulic acid.

Author information

1
Department of Dermatopharmacy and Cosmetics, Faculty of Pharmacy, Iuliu Hatieganu University of Medicine and Pharmacy, Cluj-Napoca, Romania.
2
Department of Pharmaceutical Technology and Biopharmacy, Faculty of Pharmacy, Iuliu Hatieganu University of Medicine and Pharmacy, Cluj-Napoca, Romania.
3
Department of Histology, Faculty of Medicine, Iuliu Hatieganu University of Medicine and Pharmacy, Cluj-Napoca, Romania.

Abstract

BACKGROUND AND AIMS:

The main aims of the present study were to formulate an anti-age cream based on vegetal ingredients and ferulic acid and to evaluate the physical characteristics and the efficacy of the cream.

METHODS:

The active ingredients were Centella asiatica oil, Spilanthes acmella oil, Zingiber officinale extract and ferulic acid. Formulation 1 (F1) was prepared using glyceryl stearate and Ceteareth-25® as emulsifiers and Formulation 2 (F2) using glyceryl stearate and potassium cetyl phosphate, all other ingredients remaining the same. The physical characterization of the creams was performed and the following parameters were analyzed: viscosity, oil droplet size, polydispersity index; also, texture analysis was performed. The anti-aging effect of the F2 was evaluated by assessing the cutaneous density before and after cream application using DUB-cutis® scanner.

RESULTS:

The mean diameter of oil drops was 10.26±4.72 mm (F1) and 22.72±7.93 mm (F2) and the polydispersity index was 35.4% and 45.7%, respectively. The mean values for consistency were 594.7±10.3 g (F1) and 300.5±14.5 g (F2), the average values for adhesion were 15.61±0.8 mJ (F1) and 22.25±4.3 mJ (F2), for firmness were 51.2±0.8 g (F1) and 30.3±4.3 g (F2) and the spreadability had values between 72.63 mm2 (F1) and 73.3 mm2 (F2). In vivo study revealed that the mean values of the cutaneous density increased from 9.21±1.39 % to 12.50±1.44 % after 8 weeks of cream application. The herbal ingredients incorporated in the O/W cream base for the antioxidant activity and anti-wrinkle effect, induced changes of the cutaneous density, an important parameter which quantifies the regeneration process of the skin.

CONCLUSIONS:

An anti-age cream containing herbal active ingredients and ferulic acid with appropriate physical characteristics was obtained. In vivo study of clinical efficacy revealed a positive effect on skin density, which increased after 8 weeks of cream application.

KEYWORDS:

O/W cream; anti-age; herbal extracts; texture analysis; ultrasound skin imaging

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