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Fitoterapia. 2016 Oct;114:144-162. doi: 10.1016/j.fitote.2016.09.003. Epub 2016 Sep 15.

Herbal extracts, lichens and biomolecules as natural photo-protection alternatives to synthetic UV filters. A systematic review.

Author information

1
Universidad Estatal Amazónica, Km 2 ½ Via Napo (paso lateral), Puyo, Pastaza, Ecuador.
2
School of Pharmacy and Health Products, Department of Life Sciences and Biotechnology, Master Course in Cosmetic Science and Technology, University of Ferrara, Via L. Borsari 46, 44121 Ferrara, Italy; Ambrosialab Srl, Via Mortara 171, 44121 Ferrara, Italy. Electronic address: mv9@unife.it.
3
Ambrosialab Srl, Via Mortara 171, 44121 Ferrara, Italy.
4
School of Pharmacy and Health Products, Department of Life Sciences and Biotechnology, Master Course in Cosmetic Science and Technology, University of Ferrara, Via L. Borsari 46, 44121 Ferrara, Italy.
5
School of Pharmacy and Health Products, Department of Life Sciences and Biotechnology, Master Course in Cosmetic Science and Technology, University of Ferrara, Via L. Borsari 46, 44121 Ferrara, Italy; Ambrosialab Srl, Via Mortara 171, 44121 Ferrara, Italy.

Abstract

Besides the unquestionable positive effects of solar exposure for human health, UV rays have been widely investigated for toxicology aspects related to excessive UVB and UVA doses, which involve sunburns, skin aging, DNA skin damage and tumorigenesis. At present, synthetic and mineral sunscreens are used to protect against these damages but several natural molecules can provide UV protection, including also synergic effect or enhanced photo stability. Although a large number of herbal extracts and plant origin molecules can deserve potential applications, most of the study reported utilizes different method and different strategies of investigation, making thus difficult to understand the real versus claimed potential. This is possibly one of the reasons why, beside the large body of literature there are no officially approved natural commercial sun-filter but a consistent number of commercially available solar products (sunscreen) on the market that contain herbal derivatives. In this review we have evaluated the papers appeared in the last 15years and we have critically collected the most significant data. Several databases, namely Scifinder, Pubmed, Google Scholar, ISI-Web of Science and Scopus, were used as literature sources; excluding patents and symposium or congress papers. Only articles in the English language have been selected. New formulation, new skin delivery systems, skin penetration enhancers and boosters are most likely the next frontier of investigation in order to better understand the role of whole herbal extracts in exerting their photo protective activity.

KEYWORDS:

Antioxidants; Formulation strategies; Natural UV filters; Sunscreen

PMID:
27642040
DOI:
10.1016/j.fitote.2016.09.003
[Indexed for MEDLINE]

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