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J Dermatol Sci. 2006 Oct;44(1):37-44. Epub 2006 Aug 28.

A new lipophilic pro-vitamin C, tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid (VC-IP), prevents UV-induced skin pigmentation through its anti-oxidative properties.

Author information

1
Cosmos Technical Center Co., Ltd., 3-24-3, Hasune, Itabashi-Ku, Tokyo 174-0046, Japan. ochiai@ns-cosmos.co.jp

Abstract

BACKGROUND:

Vitamin C, which is a strong anti-oxidant, plays an important role in maintaining physiological states. In dermatology, Vitamin C is used for treatment of various skin problems such as de-pigmentation of hyperpigmented spots. However, Vitamin C has limited stability and permeability, and development of a Vitamin C derivative with improved properties is needed.

OBJECTIVE:

We evaluated the effect of a lipophilic Vitamin C derivative, tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid (VC-IP), on ultraviolet (UV)-induced skin pigmentation, to determine its potential as a more effective form of Vitamin C.

METHODS:

The release of Vitamin C from VC-IP was examined using a reconstructed skin model following topical application of VC-IP. Anti-oxidative and anti-inflammatory activities of VC-IP were tested in cultured human keratinocytes. Subsequently, clinical test was done to clarify the effect of VC-IP on UVB-induced skin pigmentation.

RESULTS:

VC-IP released Vitamin C in physiological conditions and worked as pro-Vitamin C. In subsequent experiments, we found that VC-IP suppressed the elevation of intracellular peroxide after UVB irradiation, and enhanced cellular tolerance against UVB and reactive oxygen species such as hydrogen peroxide and tert-butyl hydroperoxide. Furthermore, VC-IP reduced the production of interleukin-1alpha and prostaglandin E2 in UVB-irradiated keratinocytes and suppressed melanocyte proliferation in conditioned culture medium prepared from UVB-irradiated keratinocytes. Finally, in a clinical study, topical application of a 3% VC-IP cream for 3 weeks suppressed pigmentation after UVB irradiation.

CONCLUSIONS:

These results demonstrate that VC-IP is a precursor of Vitamin C, and effectively suppresses UVB-induced skin pigmentation, possibly through its anti-oxidative activity.

PMID:
16935471
DOI:
10.1016/j.jdermsci.2006.07.001
[Indexed for MEDLINE]

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