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J Cosmet Sci. 2004 Jan-Feb;55(1):1-12.

The stabilization of L-ascorbic acid in aqueous solution and water-in-oil-in-water double emulsion by controlling pH and electrolyte concentration.

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Amore Pacific Corporation R&D Center, 314-1 Bora-ri, Giheung-eup, Yongin-si, Gyeonggi-do 449-729, Korea.


This study presents a new approach that can stabilize effectively L-ascorbic acid in water-in-oil-in-water (w/o/w) double emulsions. Basically, the behavior of L-ascorbic acid in the aqueous phase was observed, considering its molecular deformation. Then, it was found that the stability determined in the aqueous phase by high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) showed that the collapse of ionization of L-ascorbic acid played a crucial role in protecting the molecular deformation. Then, the stable aqueous system was incorporated into the internal aqueous phase of the double emulsions. From the HPLC analysis, it was observed that the L-ascorbic acid in an appropriate system showed high molecular stability for a long time. Moreover, in the measurement of in vitro skin permeation, the L-ascorbic acid stabilized in this study showed considerable skin permeation ability, indicating its potential applicability in pharmaceutics and cosmetics.

[Indexed for MEDLINE]

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