Correlations between sebaceous glands activity and porphyrins in the oily skin and hair and immediate effects of dermocosmetic formulations

Background: Oily skin and hair not only contain a large amount of sebum, but also exhibit other changes that compromise their physiology. The immediate effects of dermocosmetics are very important for adhesion to treatment.

Aim: The aim of the present study was to characterize oily skin and scalp, to evaluate the correlation of sebum production with porphyrin counts and the immediate effects of topical formulations for sebum control.

Patients/methods: A total of 100 women aged 18-49 years were recruited. Sebaceous gland activity, sebum amount, stratum corneum water content (SCWC) transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin gloss, amount of porphyrins and pores were determined in the face and SCWC, sebum amount, porphyrin count, and TEWL were also determined in the scalp. The immediate effects of formulations containing a guarana extract were determined after 2 hours of application.

Results: A correlation between sebaceous gland activity and presence of porphyrins in the frontal region of the face was detected. Low gloss values and large amounts of pores in the malar region were related to lower skin uniformity. High sebum values and low SCWC and porphyrin count were also observed in the vertex region. The studied formulations reduced the sebum content of face and scalp after 2 hours of application.

Conclusion: Oily skin and hair showed high sebum values, which were correlated with porphyrin count and with the activity of sebaceous glands. Finally, the studied formulations had immediate reducing effects on sebum amounts on the skin and scalp.