[Deodorants and antiperspirants]

The terms deodorants and antiperspirants very frequently used interchangeably despite the fact that they employ completely different active substances and mechanisms of action. Antiperspirants are necessarily deodorants due to the lack of substrate to decompose. They nevertheless represent a group of very specific substances that create particular problems due to the presence of aluminium chlorohydrate, or ACH, (Al₂(OH)₅Cl, 2H₂O), aluminium sesquichlorohydrate and aluminium-zirconium complex, which, after hydrolysis, causes intense acidification of the skin, hence the importance of inclusion of emollients and pH regulators in formulations. Moreover, systemic aluminium is thought to be genotoxic and to promote breast cancer, and it is thus at the centre of numerous scientific controversies. Nevertheless, its potential toxicity following topical application is related to its ability to penetrate skin, which is as yet poorly understood but considered very low, a fact that may provide some degree of reassurance regarding its use in cosmetic products. Its role in Alzheimer's disease has not been proven. On the other hand, zirconium salts are considered toxic and are partly regulated in Europe. The problems associated with deodorants are those arising from the presence of antiseptics (triclosan, usnic acid) capable of inducing bacterial resistance, but more particularly, the presence of axillary dermatitis due to the allergenic potential of the fragrances and essential oils used (e.g. isoeugenol, citronellal, lyral, cinnamic aldehyde, etc.).