O17. The development of 'time release' nail enamels

Int J Cosmet Sci. 2000 Apr;22(2):121-31. doi: 10.1046/j.1467-2494.2000.00005.x.

Abstract

In our recent studies on the effects of plasticizers on nail enamel films, we developed a high interest in a phenomenon that we named as 'internal flow'[1]. During the film forming process there is an area that develops beneath the film surface where the film components remain dynamic and mobile. The time frame during which the film maintains this status is directly related to the balance of the resins, plasticizers, polymers and solvents utilized. We found that the longer this 'internal flow' persists, the better the nail enamel wears. At Tevco, we have been able to control the rate at which the solvents and plasticizers flash off the substrate during the film forming process by regulating the interactions and the levels of film constituents. This 'time release' action is the foundation of our study. This study shows that the alkyl adipates are an integral component in controlling the film's internal flow through time release. As plasticizers, these materials, when in proper balance with other components, can create a film surface that is crack-and scuff-resistant. Finally, the substrate in this study is the human nail. The film we developed has to adhere and provide consistent performance over a wide range of temperatures, oil content and the surface abrasion of human nails. We have found that by utilizing adhesion promoters in conjunction with our optimized internal flow time release formula, our film meets all required criteria and generally outperforms conventional quick dry films. In conclusion, we have been able to optimize the film characteristics of conventional quick dry nail enamels. By controlling the internal flow of the film, we can enhance the performance criteria generally expected by consumers in nail enamels.