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Dermatol Surg. 2001 Feb;27(2):137-42.

Topical L-ascorbic acid: percutaneous absorption studies.

Author information

  • 1Duke University Medical Center, Department of Medicine, Durham, North Carolina 27707, USA. pinne002@mc.duke.edu

Abstract

BACKGROUND:

Reactive oxygen species generated by ultraviolet light result in photocarcinogenic and photoaging changes in the skin. Antioxidants protect skin from these insults.

OBJECTIVE:

This study defines formulation characteristics for delivering L-ascorbic acid into the skin to supplement the skin's natural antioxidant reservoir.

METHODS:

L-ascorbic acid or its derivatives were applied to pig skin. Skin levels of L-ascorbic acid were measured to determine percutaneous delivery.

RESULTS:

L-ascorbic acid must be formulated at pH levels less than 3.5 to enter the skin. Maximal concentration for optimal percutaneous absorption was 20%. Tissue levels were saturated after three daily applications; the half-life of tissue disappearance was about 4 days. Derivatives of ascorbic acid including magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl-6-palmitate, and dehydroascorbic acid did not increase skin levels of L-ascorbic acid.

CONCLUSIONS:

Delivery of topical L-ascorbic acid into the skin is critically dependent on formulation characteristics.

PMID:
11207686
[PubMed - indexed for MEDLINE]
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